“I’m ready to create.” – John Galliano
But are we actually ready for Galliano’s creations? To predict the future, let’s take a moment and return to the past. John Galliano did not succeed quickly overnight. It took hard work and dedication to get to where he is now. He was born in Gibraltar to working-class parents, then, later on, moved to London and graduated from Central Saint Martin’s having his final collection bought by Browns. A year later, his eponymous label was created. However, it wasn’t very long until he became bankrupt. He then moved to Paris where he met with friends and supermodels Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, who luckily offered to walk in his debut fashion show for free. His talent and creations were immediately recognized by Anna Wintour and André Leon Talley and introduced a financial investor for his label. His success in Paris became the catalyst to his securing appointments with Christian Dior and Givenchy.
His first collection for Givenchy was highly praised by critics. It displayed a glimpse of his eccentric creations that he would, later on, reveal to the world while also keeping the brand within its elegant confinement. During his showcase of his first collection for Givenchy inspired by Spain’s Corrida de Torros (traditional bullfighting), Audrey Hepburn’s recognizable English accent blasted out singing “The Rain in Spain” from My Fair Lady. Ironically, he was the first British designer to be head of a French Couture House, while also displaying his Span- ish influenced collection. This collection consisted of Matador inspired tailoring, textiles and frills with feminine silhouettes in monochrome tones. It is completely distinct from his first graduate collection Les Incroyables which was inspired by the French Revolution. Although, some people would say his inspirations and tastes were simply European.
Galliano’s efforts were known to be like theatrical spectacles more than anything. He clearly showcased it in his work with Dior and also in his own label. When Galliano worked with Dior, its original format was kept but had been adapted to be combined with a few theatrical elements. For example, during the Dior Spring/Summer 2003 Eastern show that he took part in, there were dancers showcasing martial arts amongst the models and also huge Chinese gongs going off throughout the show. Another example of one of his greatest theatrical works was with his own label, which was inspired by a Russian winter wonderland in 2009. A massive, shimmering kaleidoscopic was used as an entrance for the life-size Russian dolls representative of old folklore. No one else but Galliano could have come up with these incredible and artistic ideas. To Galliano, the shows aren’t just simply about the clothes; it’s more about the whole experience of it. He is known for his wild imagination, which makes his shows unforgettable and thoroughly enjoyable. His uniqueness in his theatrical spectacles captivates the audience's attention in his shows. Nowadays, the concept of theatricality is something I believe many people lack in the fashion world.
However, one question still remains. Is Maison Martin Margiela ready for John Galliano? When they announced that John Galliano was appointed as Creative Director of the label, there was much confusion going around. Many eyebrows were raised and everybody was in a bit of a shock. Over the years, the brand has slowly been losing its potency and has become more consumer-centric than ever before. As seen in Margiela’s Spring/Summer 2015 catwalk, the brand was starting to give off a sense of ‘nothingness’. Renzo Rosso, the owner of a company that covers the brand Margiela, released a statement prior to the appointment of John Galliano, “I couldn’t be happier for Maison Margiela, which deserves a new visionary leader; and for John Galliano, who is a talent beyond definition and time. I always believed in brave, unpredictable choices, and this one is no exception.” Many people aren’t sure what to expect from this collaborative process. Will it result in a diluted version of John Galliano or in an overhaul of Margiela’s iconic look? All we can do is wait and see how John Galliano will maintain a balance between keeping the brand’s aesthetics while also still including his unique ideas. His creations have never overshadowed a brand’s renowned look. He has always seemed to know instinctively which boundaries to push and which ones to leave alone. I’m positive that his influences will lead to a highly anticipated and interesting reveal in January’s Paris Couture Week.
